Pokrovsk, the eastern Ukrainian city famous as the birthplace of the beloved carol "Carol of the Bells," is scarcely recognizable this Christmas. The streets are deserted, with only a thin layer of snow covering the ruins of buildings, and the constant echo of heavy shelling fills the air.
The city is now within Russia's sights, with its forces less than two miles from the center. But it's not just physical destruction that Ukraine fears; it accuses Russia of attempting to erase its cultural heritage, including the city's association with the iconic carol.
Most of Pokrovsk's residents have fled, leaving behind homes without gas, electricity, or water. Those who remain, like 59-year-old Ihor, venture out only when necessary, constantly fearing the next shelling. Oksana, 43, remains too scared to leave her home but ventures out during brief lulls in the bombardment to gather firewood and coal. She holds out hope for Ukraine's defense, though she fears the city may soon fall.
The city has already begun to prepare for the worst. The statue of Mykola Leontovych, the composer of "Shchedryk" (the Ukrainian version of "Carol of the Bells"), has been removed, and the music school named after him is now abandoned. Leontovych, although not well known in the West, composed the melody based on a Ukrainian folk chant while living in Pokrovsk between 1904 and 1908. His music became globally recognized after American composer Peter Wilhousky added English lyrics, transforming it into "Carol of the Bells." Its use in the movie Home Alone further propelled its fame.
Viktoria Ametova, a former music teacher in Pokrovsk, now lives in Dnipro for safety. She is joined by Anna Hasych, a 13-year-old who plays the familiar chords of "Shchedryk" on the piano, a song that evokes memories of happier times in Pokrovsk. Anna’s mother, Yulia, expresses relief that her daughter is practicing the piece, emphasizing that they will not forget their hometown’s history.
For some Ukrainian soldiers, "Shchedryk" has become a symbol of resistance. A military band, playing on improvised instruments, uses the song to lift morale on the front lines. Colonel Bohdan Zadorozhnyy, who leads the band, says the song boosts soldiers' spirits and reminds them of their fight for freedom.
Though Pokrovsk may fall, its people, like Leontovych’s music, are holding onto their identity and culture with remarkable resilience. The director of the city’s History Museum, Angelina Rozhkova, has moved much of its precious artifacts to safety, including items related to Leontovych. She believes Russia is not only trying to take Ukrainian land but also destroy its culture. Despite the devastation, the people of Pokrovsk refuse to accept this erasure, and their efforts to preserve their history stand as a testament to their unyielding spirit.