Austrian guide Lukas Furtenbach plans to lead a record-breaking commercial expedition to Mount Everest in just one week, relying on xenon gas to accelerate acclimatisation. Traditional Everest climbs typically take two months, involving slow acclimatisation to avoid life-threatening conditions caused by low oxygen at high altitudes. Furtenbach’s strategy involves clients inhaling xenon gas before the climb, which may stimulate erythropoietin (EPO) production, increasing red blood cells and improving oxygen transport—essential for high-altitude survival.
While the approach promises safety by minimizing time spent in Everest's "death zone," medical and mountaineering experts are sceptical. Critics point out the lack of peer-reviewed evidence supporting xenon’s efficacy and safety at high altitudes. Xenon is banned in competitive sports for artificially enhancing EPO, and concerns remain about its potential side effects, including cognitive impairment.
Despite past anecdotal successes using xenon on other peaks, like Aconcagua and a test on Everest in 2022, experts urge caution. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) warns of unknown risks, and the scientific community remains unconvinced. Furtenbach insists the gas helps climbers summit faster and safer, though some climbers and doctors view the practice as a dangerous gamble driven by commercial ambition rather than proven science.