A recent controversy involving luxury fashion brand Prada has unexpectedly fueled a resurgence in the demand for India’s traditional Kolhapuri sandals. The issue began when Prada showcased a new line of leather sandals at Milan Fashion Week that closely resembled Kolhapuri chappals, a centuries-old handcrafted design native to Maharashtra, India. The initial descriptions of the footwear failed to acknowledge its Indian roots, sparking widespread criticism on social media and among cultural experts who accused the brand of cultural appropriation.

Following the backlash, Prada’s corporate social responsibility head, Lorenzo Bertelli, issued a formal statement recognizing the sandals as being inspired by Indian heritage. He affirmed the brand’s respect for traditional Indian craftsmanship and expressed willingness to explore collaborations with Indian artisans.

The acknowledgment came too late to prevent a social media storm but had a surprising side effect: Indian brands producing Kolhapuri sandals have reported an unprecedented spike in sales. Small businesses and startups such as Shopkop, Ira Soles, and Niira have seen their daily orders multiply, with some jumping from modest daily turnovers of ₹10,000 to over ₹50,000 in a matter of days. E-commerce platforms have quickly capitalized on the trend, promoting slogans like “just walked the ramp at Prada” and offering discounts on their traditional footwear lines.

The controversy has also reignited national pride in Indian craftsmanship. The Kolhapuri chappal, which received Geographical Indication (GI) tag protection in 2019, is produced by over 7,000 artisans, mainly across Maharashtra and Karnataka. Political leaders and industry advocates have called for stronger global protections and recognition to ensure Indian artisans are credited and compensated when their designs are used by global brands.

Indian business leaders have also joined the discussion. Industrialist Harsh Goenka and former World Bank director Dhanendra Kumar highlighted the vast profit disparity, noting that local artisans typically earn ₹300–1,500 per pair while luxury fashion houses sell similar designs for over ₹1.2 lakh.

In response to the global attention, talks are reportedly underway for possible collaborations between Prada and Indian artisans. There are also hopes of expanding exports of Kolhapuri footwear, with projections suggesting potential annual revenue of up to \$1 billion if international markets continue to respond positively.

While the controversy raised concerns about cultural respect and intellectual property, it has also brought renewed attention and commercial opportunity to a traditional Indian craft that had been struggling for relevance in the modern marketplace. For now, the Kolhapuri sandal stands as both a symbol of heritage and a trending fashion statement, with local artisans benefiting from the unexpected spotlight.