On a cool summer evening in the French Alps, just past 9 pm, a tranquil hiking path is transformed into a vibrant scene.
Instead of quiet serenity and starry skies, there's blaring house music, red flare smoke, and a man revving a chainsaw, albeit without the blade. This chaotic atmosphere is unfolding at Notre Dame de la Gorge near Les Contamines-Montjoie, and at the center of it all is Courtney Dauwalter, the world's top female ultra-runner, 20 miles into the epic Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB).
UTMB, often described as the World Cup, Tour de France, and Super Bowl of running, covers 106 miles through France, Italy, and Switzerland, circumnavigating Mont Blanc. It boasts 10,000 meters of elevation gain, extreme temperature variations, and unpredictable mountain conditions. The race follows a popular hiking route that takes hikers 10 days to complete, but elite runners like Dauwalter aim to finish in under 20 hours.
In this year's 20th anniversary edition, 2,689 athletes from 81 countries embarked on this grueling challenge, with over a third unable to complete it. Jez Bragg, the only male British winner of UTMB (2010), describes it as a "perfect journey," while four-time champion Francois d'Haene highlights the shared feeling of accomplishment among both winners and finishers.
UTMB stands out in various ways, from its breathtaking Alpine scenery in Chamonix to its massive scale, involving 10,000 participants and 2,500 volunteers. The atmosphere is legendary, with enthusiastic crowds lining the streets and remote sections of the course to support runners, even in the middle of the night.
Competing in UTMB is a dream for many ultra-runners due to its unmatched competitiveness. American Dylan Bowman, a seventh-place finisher in 2017, calls it the race to win, and British runner Tom Evans, third in 2022, agrees despite his Western States triumph. UTMB holds a special place in trail running, with Chamonix serving as its summer home in Europe.
Courtney Dauwalter, 2022's women's UTMB champion, stands out as a once-in-a-generation athlete, holding records in Western States, Hardrock, and UTMB, consistently finishing in the top 10 regardless of gender. Her carefree attitude and remarkable athletic feats have elevated her to near-household name status in the United States.
UTMB's evolution from a low-key race organized from a living room in 2003 to an international phenomenon co-owned by Ironman Group hasn't been without controversy. Some have criticized the race's commercialization and its impact on the environment, while others champion its growth and global appeal.
The race unfolds in dramatic fashion, with runners like Jim Walmsley and Zach Miller competing for the men's title and Dauwalter dominating the women's field. The grueling nature of the race and the extreme conditions push runners to their limits, both physically and mentally.
UTMB's coverage is equally remarkable, with live streams, drones, helicopters, and dedicated videographers capturing every moment. The race's social media presence has exploded, attracting millions of views and extensive media coverage.
In the end, each UTMB finisher has a unique motivation, and the race exemplifies the spirit of pushing human limits. It's an event where extraordinary individuals come together to test their physical and mental capabilities, providing inspiration and spectacle for all who witness it.