On a crisp December day in 2024, I embarked on a three-hour scenic train ride from Geneva to Lauterbrunnen, a picturesque Alpine village nestled between Interlaken and the towering Jungfrau massif. From here, I was at the threshold of Mürren—a remote, car-free mountain hamlet that has preserved its old-world charm despite modern advancements.
For centuries, Mürren’s residents endured arduous three-hour treks down to the valley to gather supplies before making the challenging ascent back home. That changed in 1891 with the arrival of a narrow-gauge railway connecting Mürren to Grütschalp and a funicular link to Lauterbrunnen. In 1965, a single-track cableway was introduced, enabling travel to Gimmelwald, another traffic-free village.
But on the day of my visit, Mürren—home to just 430 people—experienced a transformative moment. The world’s steepest cable car, the Schilthornbahn, was unveiled, linking this secluded village to the outside world like never before. In just four minutes, travelers can ascend 775 meters through the dramatic landscapes of the Swiss Alps, taking in jaw-dropping panoramic views along the way.
Arriving at the Stechelberg car park, I stepped into a glass-walled cabin and watched as the valley floor receded beneath me. Below, traditional Swiss cottages dotted the landscape, framed by rugged cliffs and snow-laden pine forests. The ascent up the near-vertical Mürrenfluh rockface was so seamless that I barely registered the record-breaking 159.4% incline—until my ears popped from the altitude shift.
Mürren sits like a crown jewel on a natural terrace at the base of the Schilthorn summit (2,970m), dramatically overlooking the Lauterbrunnen valley. This medieval village, with its stone and timber chalets, appears to cling precariously to the mountainside. Due to its unique location, no road has ever been built to connect it to the outside world.
"For most people, taking a cable car to school sounds unusual, but for me, it was just part of daily life," said lifelong resident Michael Abegglen. "We have almost everything we need in Mürren, but for a doctor’s visit, a haircut, or dental care, we still have to travel down to the valley, where many of us keep our cars parked."
Abegglen spoke of a tight-knit community where familiarity breeds deep bonds. "When you grow up here, you know almost everyone. Even our visitors feel like locals—many return year after year.
After settling into Hotel Alpenruh and marveling at the uninterrupted views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau peaks from my balcony, I quickly discovered that Mürren—unsurprisingly—is best explored on foot.
The village’s few winding streets are dotted with cozy inns, rustic restaurants serving Alpine cheeses and cured meats, and bars offering evening aperitifs. Boutique souvenir shops display Swiss chocolates, cuckoo clocks, and cowbells. A standout landmark is the Hotel Mürren Palace, an opulent 1874 establishment once frequented by Hollywood icons like Rita Hayworth. During the early 20th century, its grand ballroom was a gathering spot for Europe’s elite. As snowflakes began to drift down, I ducked into the Eiger Guesthouse pub, warming my hands around a steaming mug of glühwein (spiced mulled wine).
Despite its modest size, Mürren has played a pivotal role in winter sports history. Once a quiet Walser settlement, it became a hotspot for skiing after British enthusiasts discovered its pristine slopes in the late 19th century.
"My great-grandfather Henry Lunn first visited Mürren in the 1890s and was captivated by its stunning scenery," said Bernard Lunn, a longtime resident and self-described "ski bum." "He began bringing British tourists here to admire the legendary ‘triumvirate’ of Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. Later, my grandfather Arnold Lunn, a mountaineer, settled here with his wife Mabel. In 1922, Arnold organized the world’s first slalom ski races, while Mabel and other British women established the Ladies’ Ski Club."
Arnold’s influence led to the creation of the Kandahar Ski Club in 1924 and Switzerland’s first ski school in 1930. By February 1931, Mürren hosted the inaugural Alpine World Ski Championships.
A century later, the region boasts 54km of pristine ski runs linked by cable cars, funiculars, and chairlifts. When conditions permit, experienced skiers can carve a thrilling 16km descent from the Schilthorn summit to the Lauterbrunnen valley.
"For me, nothing beats sipping coffee at the peak before skiing down with friends and family," said Alan Ramsay, a Scotsman who has lived in Mürren for over 25 years. As a key organizer of the annual Inferno Race—the world’s largest amateur ski competition, set for January 21-24, 2026—Ramsay sees Mürren as a paradise for snow lovers.
Yet, there’s more to Mürren than just skiing. From June to September, it transforms into a paragliding haven, offering breathtaking aerial views of craggy peaks, turquoise lakes, and more than 70 cascading waterfalls. Meanwhile, hikers can wander through meadows bursting with wildflowers, where sheep graze lazily against the mountain backdrop.
Whether blanketed in snow or basking in summer’s golden light, Mürren remains an enchanting retreat, seemingly frozen in time yet forever evolving.