Lhakpa Sherpa's remarkable life story is as compelling as her climbing achievements. Holding the record for the most Everest ascents by a woman, with ten summits, Sherpa's accomplishments are exceptional. However, her personal life has been fraught with challenges and danger.
While conquering the world's highest peak, Sherpa endured domestic abuse from her husband, including a harrowing incident during their 2004 descent from Everest. Now living in the United States, she supports her three children through jobs at a grocery store and as a cleaner. Her life story, both on and off the mountain, is documented in the Netflix film Mountain Queen: The Summits of Lhakpa Sherpa, directed by Lucy Walker. Sherpa expresses pride in the film, highlighting her determination to demonstrate that women can achieve great feats.
Surprisingly, Sherpa's record-breaking climbs were achieved with minimal formal training. Climbing Everest is notoriously perilous, with over 300 deaths reported in the region. Sherpa, despite carrying out regular work duties and staying fit by walking in the Connecticut mountains, accomplishes this with extraordinary resilience. Walker acknowledges Sherpa’s exceptional athleticism and strength, emphasizing the remarkable nature of her achievements given her everyday responsibilities.
Born in 1973 to yak farmers in the Nepalese Himalayas, Sherpa was one of eleven children and faced significant educational barriers, as girls' education was not prioritized in her region. Despite carrying her brother to school, she was not permitted to attend herself. This lack of formal education continues to impact her life, as she struggles with everyday tasks like using a TV remote. However, women's literacy in Nepal has improved dramatically, from 10% in 1981 to 70% by 2021.
Sherpa began working as a porter on mountain expeditions at 15, which allowed her to avoid a traditional arranged marriage. Her life became increasingly complex after she became pregnant following a brief relationship in Kathmandu and was unable to return home due to shame. Her subsequent marriage to Romanian-American mountaineer George Dijmărescu, who had escaped Romania under Nicolae Ceaușescu’s regime, led to a family life in the U.S. But their relationship deteriorated, culminating in violence during their 2004 Everest expedition. Sherpa recounts this period with chilling detail in the documentary, describing how Dijmărescu’s behavior turned hostile and resulted in physical abuse.
Following the 2004 climb, Sherpa experienced significant trauma. The abuse she suffered from Dijmărescu continued until 2012, when she was hospitalized due to an assault. This incident marked a turning point, leading her to leave with her children to a women’s refuge and eventually divorce Dijmărescu in 2015. He was later convicted for breach of the peace, receiving a suspended sentence and probation, but he died of cancer in 2020.
Despite the trauma, Sherpa found it difficult to discuss her past for the documentary. However, she and her children agreed that sharing their story was important. Her children, Sunny and Shiny, appeared in the film, expressing that although it was overwhelming, it was essential to showcase their family's resilience.
Sherpa describes her post-trauma life as incredibly tough but driven by the determination to provide a better future for her children. She continues to climb as a means of healing, and in 2022, she set out on her record-breaking tenth ascent of Everest. Her daughters, proud of her achievements, support her dreams of starting a guiding company and obtaining sponsorship.
Sherpa's story is a testament to her indomitable spirit and dedication, inspiring others with her strength and perseverance.