In India, clothing is more than just a matter of personal style it is a complex and layered expression of identity, ideology, and history. From the sarees of Bengal to the turbans of Punjab, from hijabs in Hyderabad to crop tops in Mumbai, how people dress is a powerful language that communicates cultural belonging, political alignment, and social values.
One of the most visible arenas where the politics of dress plays out is in the tension between traditional attire and modern, often Western, clothing. In many urban spaces, young people are adopting jeans, t-shirts, and other global styles, blending them with ethnic touches. But this evolution is not without friction. In conservative circles, modern clothing is sometimes viewed as a sign of moral decay or a loss of cultural roots. On the other hand, youth and women’s rights groups argue that dress is a matter of autonomy and evolving identity, not betrayal of tradition.
Nowhere is the cultural politics of dressing more pronounced than in the gendered expectations around clothing. Women, especially, are often scrutinized for their attire in both public and private spaces. Clothing becomes a barometer of “respectability” and morality. Debates around school and college dress codes, religious garments like hijabs or veils, or the so-called "modesty" expected of Indian women show how dress becomes a means of control—particularly over female bodies. These expectations are often enforced not just by conservative elders but by political and religious authorities seeking to reinforce a particular cultural order.
India's religious diversity is visibly woven into the country’s dressing styles. Muslim women may wear hijabs or burqas; Sikh men often wear turbans; Hindu rituals involve specific dress codes, especially for religious festivals or temple visits. In such a multi-faith society, clothing has become a political statement. Legal and social battles have erupted over the right to wear or not wear certain garments—such as the hijab in schools—reflecting larger communal and ideological rifts in Indian society.
Clothing is also an expression of regional pride. The Kerala mundu, the Assamese mekhela chador, the Maharashtrian nauvari saree—each piece of clothing tells a story of local customs and history. However, attempts to impose a “national dress” or a homogenized idea of what “Indian” dressing should look like can sometimes erase the rich mosaic of regional cultures. Politicians and activists often use dress as a tool to promote regional identity or to resist centralized cultural mandates.
Clothing also reflects deep socio-economic divides. While designer sarees and linen kurtas might be celebrated in elite circles, similar traditional outfits worn by the working class may be seen as signs of backwardness. Historically, certain castes were prohibited from wearing specific clothes or adorning themselves in certain ways—a legacy that still shadows how dressing is perceived across social strata.
Despite these challenges, clothing in India has also been a form of protest and assertion. The khadi movement during the freedom struggle was a sartorial rebellion against British imperialism. Today, Dalit activists wear blue in tribute to Dr. Ambedkar, and queer communities use pride colours to reclaim space and visibility. Young people wear their clothes not just on their backs, but as bold statements of who they are, and what they believe in.
In India, dressing is rarely just about fashion—it is a daily act of negotiation between identity, power, freedom, and heritage. The way one dresses can open doors or invite scrutiny, grant privilege or provoke discrimination. Understanding the cultural politics of clothing is essential to grasping the broader dialogues of power, identity, and resistance that shape Indian society. To dress in India is to participate, knowingly or not, in a larger conversation about what kind of nation India wants to be.