For the first time in more than 30 years, Rabbi Joseph Hamra and his son Henry stood inside a synagogue in the heart of Damascus, reading from a Torah scroll. Their fingers carefully traced the ancient Hebrew script, their return a powerful symbol of resilience and heritage.
The father and son fled Syria in the 1990s, after then-President Hafez al-Assad lifted restrictions that had long confined the country's historic Jewish community. Decades of oppression—limiting property ownership and employment—had led thousands of Syrian Jews to leave en masse, reducing the once-thriving community to just a handful of individuals in Damascus. Joseph and Henry, then just a child, resettled in New York.
"Weren't we in a prison? So we wanted to see what was on the outside," Joseph, now 77, recalled. "Everyone else who left with us is dead."
Their return became possible after the downfall of Assad’s son, President Bashar al-Assad, in December. With the help of the U.S.-based Syrian Emergency Task Force, they navigated a vastly changed Syria, where a new caretaker government—installed by Islamist rebels—has pledged to protect minority communities, including Jewish heritage sites.
The Jewish presence in Syria dates back over two millennia, with Damascus and Aleppo once home to vibrant Jewish communities. The Great Synagogue of Aleppo housed the revered Aleppo Codex, an ancient Hebrew Bible manuscript believed to date back to the 10th century. However, political and social turmoil throughout the 20th century led to mass emigration, particularly to Israel, the United States, and Latin America.
Walking through Damascus’ UNESCO-listed Old City, Joseph and Henry reconnected with former Palestinian Syrian neighbors and rediscovered remnants of Jewish history in well-preserved synagogues. Hand-painted Hebrew inscriptions still adorned some walls, offering a glimpse into a past that had nearly vanished.
"I want to see my kids come back and see this beautiful synagogue. It’s a work of art," Henry, now 48, said, hopeful about the future of Syria’s Jewish heritage.
Yet, not all traces of the past remain intact. The once-grand Jobar Synagogue, built in honor of the biblical prophet Elijah, was reduced to rubble during Syria’s nearly 14-year civil war. The neighborhood of Jobar, once a major Jewish hub, had already seen its Jewish population decline by the 19th century. The synagogue, one of the oldest in the world, was looted before its ultimate destruction.
Additionally, sacred artifacts, including a golden-lettered Torah, now reside in a library in Israel—a stark reminder of how Syrian Jewish heritage has been scattered across the world.
Despite their emotional return, the Hamras acknowledge the uncertainty surrounding Syria’s Jewish future. While the new government has vowed to preserve Jewish heritage, reports of increasing religious conservatism and sectarian divisions raise concerns.
Henry remains cautiously optimistic. "We need the government's help, we need the government's security, and it’s going to happen," he said.
For now, their visit stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Syria’s Jewish past. Whether future generations of Syrian Jews will walk the same streets remains to be seen.